Tuesday, April 22, 2014

home made brakeplate

The latest casting project I've been working on for a while just came out of the molds.

It started as a big chunk of MDF slid over an old front axle.


Then adding some parts cut out of an old front brake plate, kindly donated to the casting process by a friend. And the beginnings of a scoop on the front.


Even though they are still loose parts, it is starting to look like something, and a lot more race inspired then an original 160mm brakeplate.


Smoothing and painting.


allmost ready for casting.


and the inside, made with original parts so the standard brake shoes will fit.


Broke the mold open, first impressions look good, fully formed, although it has some little flaws, but that is the charm of sandcasting.


Fully uncovered, it looks good, just like the original old racing brakes, but made to fit a normal 160mm Honda hub as found in many street bikes, and in my RSC90.


Now to harden it and then machining, what will probably take some time for this first one. But then I will have a plan for the next ones I might just make.

and some other stuff that was cast in the same session:

CR750, CR110 and JRP, more rare stuff from my hands, how funny is that.

Thursday, March 27, 2014

finally: tank panels

My moped finally has some tank panels, after riding it for a long time without anything, now I finally have a complete tank.

Monday, March 24, 2014

oil lines and other tiny bits

While building I still find small things to improve and order new parts for, such as the oil lines. I wanted these to run up to the carburetor again, just like original, as I had run it with only one line from the case directly to the head, but in cold weather this resulted in a frozen carb.
So I ordered new oil lines, to bend them in the right shape and not one that had evolved over multiple owners fiddling with them.


Also fitted NOS grips and had quite a fight getting them on as they were a little tight and just a bit hardened over time.

Cables are in place, as I also ordered a new clutch cable so everything would match in color, made a new throttle cable and replaced the blue sheath on the dimmer switch with some grey so that would match too.

Just a few little thing to do before I can take the bike apart again, so I can take it down the stairs to rebuild it on the ground floor and get it running.

Thursday, March 13, 2014

a little more progress

Been stuck at home for a little while because of an injury to my foot, but that gave my time to work on my C110 street bike.
The correct rear brake pedal for a high exhaust came in just a few days ago, and I think that was pretty much the last part I needed, while I am putting it together I'm not sure what to do with the exhaust.
I have an original high muffler, but it has some scrapes and rusty bits and the protectors are pretty bad, so another option that I would think goes really well with the seat, would be a racing muffler. original ones are made from "unobtainium", so I will probably have to make it myself. Made a mockup with paper to get the idea and put on the original racing protector that I have, just like the one on the C110 racer I'm building.



And then how to build it, with the mountings to the original muffler mount just before the shock, as it is pictured in the manual. or to the upper shock mount, as all megaphones are, that I've seen, but even though that is probably more original I think that doesn't look all that nice.

Wednesday, March 5, 2014

some progress

The zinc plating came back, so I could start putting parts back on the bike again to rebuild it.
Still waiting for some new parts like the steering races and then it can be fully put back together.

ignition up and...not running yet

Yesterday I finished the ignition on the C110 "race" engine, I wanted something a bit lighter then the stock flywheel, but I didn't want to run a battery.
So I modified a backplate off one of those cheap inner rotor pitbike ignitions to fit into the C110 case.
Used a 6v-12v tap converter meant for an OHC engine to fit the rotor, and a little tinkering to get everything lined up.

The engine went back in the frame and I mounted the CDI-unit and coil, easy access on the side and it just fits under my narrowed cover. Checked it to see that I had spark and then made an off switch in my throttle housing, from an old CB72 starter button.



Getting really close to starting her up for the first time, I'm interested to hear what the weight loss on the crankshaft will sound like.

Saturday, March 1, 2014

C110 close ratio 4th gear

On paper the standard C110 gearbox is pretty close, nicer then any standard OHC gearbox, but while riding I felt the step from 3rd to 4th was a bit tall, so for the racebike I was wondering if anything could be done about that easily.

I have a lot of ratio's on paper of different gearboxes, so looking at OHC models, which have the same distance shaft to shaft and a similar 4speed system I found another gearbox with a shorter 4th gear that might just work in a C110.
I had a look through my leftovers of various gearboxes and came up with an SL70 4th gear what would be my best bet.
An SS50 4th gear could also be used, but then I would have to remove more material from the 3rd gear for it to work, and I didn't want to take off too much.

Seen here the original C110 gearbox with the parts to modify taken off, and on the bottem the new 4th gear, which is too wide to fit in a C110.


To make the SL70 primary 4th gear work, I had to take off a little bit from the 3rd gear cogs so they would slot into 4th. So it went on the lathe with the anglegrinder attachment.


After that, it's time to narrow the SL70 primairy 4th gear, again, grinding it on the lathe.

Same was done the the secundairy SL70 gear, and after that a lot of cleanup to get the lathe free of all the grinding dust, including taking the chuck apart and cleaning the insides.

C110 gearbox, with close ratio 4th gear upgrade kit (in the middle) :


And a quick pic mounted in the engine.


Now I really want to finish the engine and get the rolling chassis done so far that I can feel what a difference this 4th gear makes. Theoretically it should make the step from 3rd to 4th about 40% smaller.

Wednesday, February 26, 2014

CR750 pedals

about a week ago I did some casting for a friend
look at the nice bunch of parts laying there
copy's of Honda CR750 brakepedal, shiftlever and small change arms for the right-foot-shifter conversion.



Still finding it funny to have all these rare parts, usually made from "unobtainium" but these I just made myself.

anyone who has RSC style footpegs that I could copy?

racing style lever perches, part two

Did some more machining to finish this little sub-project.
Turned some stainless pegs for the spring to hook behind



Drilled some holes and started polishing, one at a time, not too bright, it should match the shine of the levers. I like my aluminium to still look like polished aluminium instead of chrome.



Finished product, including specials springs, bolts, castle nuts and splitpins.



mounted to the RSC90, even though I'm planning to make different ones for this bike later on, but for now it's an upgrade. Special chrome adjuster nuts were already on the cables.


And now there done and I should get back to building the C110 racer, so I can ride it this season.

But when I do another day of casting I might just make another set of these to be machined for another bike, or anyone who is interested.

Saturday, February 22, 2014

racing style lever perches

This casting "thing" is getting funny.
Copied me a set of the CL72 perches that I now have on my RSC90, but then with solid mirror mounts, so they can be removed without leaving a trace.

making the space for the lever


just enough, it fits


we're getting there, mirror mounts removed and contour shaped to look like the originals that were a bit less rounded. Then drilled the holes for the handlebar.


but still some machining to do before they will be ready for fitting.
cutting the opening in the clamp, making the hole for the adjuster, threading it and making a slot for the cable. Making the pegs that the spring hooks behind, probably from stainless, and fitting them. Making the holes for the leverbolts, 7mm on top and 6mm bottom without threads for the special bolts.
A lot of work for a couple of perches, but they will be different from all the other ones in the paddock.